Publications

177 publications

2022

Lange, A. M. Z., Fiedler, J. W., Becker, J. M., Merrifield, M. A., & Guza, R. T. (2022). Estimating runup with limited bathymetry. Coastal Engineering, 172(104055), 10. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104055

2021

Merrifield, M. A., Johnson, M., Guza, R. T., Fiedler, J. W., Young, A. P., Henderson, C. S., ... Terrill, E. (2021). An early warning system for wave-driven coastal flooding at Imperial Beach, CA. Natural Hazards, 22. doi: 10.1007/s11069-021-04790-x
Young, A. P., Guza, R. T., Matsumoto, H., Merrifield, M. A., O'Reilly, W. C., & Swirad, Z. M. (2021). Three years of weekly observations of coastal cliff erosion by waves and rainfall. Geomorphology, 375(107545). doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2020.107545

2020

Matsumoto, H., Young, A. P., & Guza, R. T. (2020). Cusp and mega cusp observations on a mixed sediment beach. Earth and Space Science, 7(10). doi: 10.1029/2020ea001366
Fiedler, J. W., Young, A. P., Ludka, B. C., O'Reilly, W. C., Henderson, C., Merrifield, M. A., & Guza, R. T. (2020). Predicting site-specific storm wave run-up. Natural Hazards. doi: 10.1007/s11069-020-04178-3
Kalligeris, N., Smit, P. B., Ludka, B. C., Guza, R. T., & Gallien, T. W. (2020). Calibration and assessment of process-based numerical models for beach profile evolution in southern California. Coastal Engineering, 158(103650). doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103650
Matsumoto, H., Young, A. P., & Guza, R. T. (2020). Observations of surface cobbles at two southern California beaches. Marine Geology, 419(106049). doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2019.106049

2019

Ludka, B. C., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., Merrifield, M. A., Flick, R. E., Bak, A. S., ... Boyd, G. (2019). Sixteen years of bathymetry and waves at San Diego beaches. Scientific Data, 6(161). doi: 10.1038/s41597-019-0167-6
Vittori, G., Blondeaux, P., Coco, G., & Guza, R. T. (2019). Subharmonic edge wave excitation by narrow-band, random incident waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 868(R4). doi: 10.1017/jfm.2019.214
Crosby, S. C., Kumar, N., O'Reilly, W. C., & Guza, R. T. (2019). Regional swell transformation by backward ray tracing and SWAN. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 36(2), 217-229. doi: 10.1175/jtech-d-18-0123.1
Fiedler, J. W., Smit, P. B., Brodie, K. L., McNinch, J., & Guza, R. T. (2019). The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling. Coastal Engineering, 143, 12-20. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.10.014

2018

Young, A. P., Flick, R. E., Gallien, T. W., Giddings, S. N., Guza, R. T., Harvey, M., ... O'Reilly, W. C. (2018). Southern California coastal response to the 2015–2016 El Niño. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 123(11), 3069-3083. doi: 10.1029/2018JF004771
Ludka, B. C., Guza, R. T., & O'Reilly, W. C. (2018). Nourishment evolution and impacts at four southern California beaches: A sand volume analysis. Coastal Engineering, 136, 96-105. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.02.003
Fiedler, J. W., Smit, P. B., Brodie, K. L., McNinch, J., & Guza, R. T. (2018). Numerical modeling of wave runup on steep and mildly sloping natural beaches. Coastal Engineering, 131, 106-113. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.09.004

2017

Cuomo, G., & Guza, R. T. (2017). Infragravity Seiches in a Small Harbor. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 143(5). doi: 10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000392
Crosby, S. C., Cornuelle, B. D., O'Reilly, W. C., & Guza, R. T. (2017). Assimilating Global Wave Model Predictions and Deep-Water Wave Observations in Nearshore Swell Predictions. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 34(8), 1823-1836. doi: 10.1175/jtech-d-17-0003.1

2016

Feddersen, F., Olabarrieta, M., Guza, R. T., Winters, D., Raubenheimer, B., & Elgar, S. (2016). Observations and modeling of a tidal inlet dye tracer plume. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 121(10), 7819-7844. doi: 10.1002/2016jc011922
O'Reilly, W. C., Olfe, C. B., Thomas, J., Seymour, R. J., & Guza, R. T. (2016). The California coastal wave monitoring and prediction system. Coastal Engineering, 116, 118-132. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.06.005
Young, A. P., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., Burvingt, O., & Flick, R. E. (2016). Observations of coastal cliff base waves, sand levels, and cliff top shaking. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 41(11), 1564-1573. doi: 10.1002/esp.3928
Crosby, S. C., O'Reilly, W. C., & Guza, R. T. (2016). Modeling long-period swell in Southern California: Practical boundary conditions from buoy observations and global wave model predictions. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 33(8), 1673-1690. doi: 10.1175/jtech-d-16-0038.1
Doria, A., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., & Yates, M. L. (2016). Observations and modeling of San Diego beaches during El Nino. Continental Shelf Research, 124, 153-164. doi: 10.1016/j.csr.2016.05.008
Ludka, B. C., Gallien, T. W., Crosby, S. C., & Guza, R. T. (2016). Mid-El Nino erosion at nourished and unnourished Southern California beaches. Geophysical Research Letters, 43(9), 4510-4516. doi: 10.1002/2016gl068612

2015

Fiedler, J. W., Brodie, K. L., McNinch, J. E., & Guza, R. T. (2015). Observations of runup and energy flux on a low-slope beach with high-energy, long-period ocean swell. Geophysical Research Letters, 42(22), 9933-9941. doi: 10.1002/2015gl066124
Ludka, B. C., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., & Yates, M. L. (2015). Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 120(11), 7574-7597. doi: 10.1002/2015jc010893
Hally-Rosendahl, K., Feddersen, F., Clark, D. B., & Guza, R. T. (2015). Surfzone to inner-shelf exchange estimated from dye tracer balances. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 120(9), 6289-6308. doi: 10.1002/2015jc010844
Spydell, M. S., Feddersen, F., Olabarrieta, M., Chen, J. L., Guza, R. T., Raubenheimer, B., & Elgar, S. (2015). Observed and modeled drifters at a tidal inlet. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 120(7), 4825-4844. doi: 10.1002/2014jc010541
Gallien, T. W., O'Reilly, W. C., Flick, R. E., & Guza, R. T. (2015). Geometric properties of anthropogenic flood control berms on southern California beaches. Ocean & Coastal Management, 105, 35-47. doi: 10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2014.12.014

2014

Hally-Rosendahl, K., Feddersen, F., & Guza, R. T. (2014). Cross-shore tracer exchange between the surfzone and inner-shelf. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 119(7), 4367-4388. doi: 10.1002/2013jc009722
Clark, D. B., Lenain, L., Feddersen, F., Boss, E., & Guza, R. T. (2014). Aerial imaging of fluorescent dye in the near shore. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 31(6), 1410-1421. doi: 10.1175/jtech-d-13-00230.1
Spydell, M. S., Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., & MacMahan, J. (2014). Relating Lagrangian and Eulerian horizontal eddy statistics in the surfzone. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 119(2), 1022-1037. doi: 10.1002/2013jc009415

2013

Young, A. P., Guza, R. T., Dickson, M. E., O'Reilly, W. C., & Flick, R. E. (2013). Ground motions on rocky, cliffed, and sandy shorelines generated by ocean waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 118(12), 6590-6602. doi: 10.1002/2013jc008883
Doria, A., & Guza, R. T. (2013). Estimating changes in near-shore bathymetry with subaerial surveys. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 30(9), 2225-2232.
Rippy, M. A., Franks, P. J. S., Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., & Warrick, J. A. (2013). Beach nourishment impacts on bacteriological water quality and phytoplankton bloom dynamics. Environmental Science & Technology, 47(12), 6146-6154. doi: 10.1021/es400572k
Rippy, M. A., Franks, P. J. S., Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., & Moore, D. F. (2013). Physical dynamics controlling variability in nearshore fecal pollution: Fecal indicator bacteria as passive particles. Marine Pollution Bulletin, 66(1-2), 151-157. doi: 10.1016/j.marpolbul.2012.09.030
Rippy, M. A., Franks, P. J. S., Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., & Moore, D. F. (2013). Factors controlling variability in nearshore fecal pollution: The effects of mortality. Marine Pollution Bulletin, 66(1-2), 191-198. doi: 10.1016/j.marpolbul.2012.09.003

2012

Young, A. P., Guza, R. T., Adams, P. N., O'Reilly, W. C., & Flick, R. E. (2012). Cross-shore decay of cliff top ground motions driven by local ocean swell and infragravity waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 117(C06029). doi: 10.1029/2012jc007908
Guza, R. T., & Feddersen, F. (2012). Effect of wave frequency and directional spread on shoreline runup. Geophysical Research Letters, 39(L11607). doi: 10.1029/2012gl051959

2011

Clark, D. B., Feddersen, F., & Guza, R. T. (2011). Modeling surf zone tracer plumes: 2. Transport and dispersion. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 116(C11028). doi: 10.1029/2011jc007211
Feddersen, F., Clark, D. B., & Guza, R. T. (2011). Modeling surf zone tracer plumes: 1. Waves, mean currents, and low-frequency eddies. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 116(C11027). doi: 10.1029/2011jc007210
Young, A. P., Adams, P. N., O'Reilly, W. C., Flick, R. E., & Guza, R. T. (2011). Coastal cliff ground motions from local ocean swell and infragravity waves in southern California. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 116(C09007). doi: 10.1029/2011jc007175
Davidson, M. A., Turner, I. L., & Guza, R. T. (2011). The effect of temporal wave averaging on the performance of an empirical shoreline evolution model. Coastal Engineering, 58(8), 802-805. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.03.007
Gorrell, L., Raubenheimer, B., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2011). SWAN predictions of waves observed in shallow water onshore of complex bathymetry. Coastal Engineering, 58(6), 510-516. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.01.013
Omand, M. M., Leichter, J. J., Franks, P. J. S., Guza, R. T., Lucas, A. J., & Feddersen, F. (2011). Physical and biological processes underlying the sudden surface appearance of a red tide in the nearshore. Limnology and Oceanography, 56(3), 787-801. doi: 10.4319/lo.2011.56.3.0787
Yates, M. L., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., Hansen, J. E., & Barnard, P. L. (2011). Equilibrium shoreline response of a high wave energy beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 116(C04014). doi: 10.1029/2010jc006681
Young, A. P., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., Flick, R. E., & Gutierrez, R. (2011). Short-term retreat statistics of a slowly eroding coastal cliff. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 11(1), 205-217. doi: 10.5194/nhess-11-205-2011

2010

Clark, D. B., Feddersen, F., & Guza, R. T. (2010). Cross-shore surfzone tracer dispersion in an alongshore current. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 115(C10035). doi: 10.1029/2009jc005683
Young, A. P., Raymond, J. H., Sorenson, J., Johnstone, E. A., Driscoll, N. W., Flick, R. E., & Guza, R. T. (2010). Coarse Sediment Yields from Seacliff Erosion in the Oceanside Littoral Cell. Journal of Coastal Research, 26(3), 580-585. doi: 10.2112/08-1179.1
Young, A. P., Olsen, M. J., Driscoll, N., Flick, R. E., Gutierrez, R., Guza, R. T., ... Kuester, F. (2010). Comparison of Airborne and Terrestrial Lidar Estimates of Seacliff Erosion in Southern California. Photogrammetric Engineering and Remote Sensing, 76(4), 421-427.

2009

Young, A. P., Guza, R. T., Flick, R. E., O'Reilly, W. C., & Gutierrez, R. (2009). Rain, waves, and short-term evolution of composite seacliffs in southern California. Marine Geology, 267(1-2), 1-7. doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2009.08.008
Young, A. P., Flick, R. E., Gutierrez, R., & Guza, R. T. (2009). Comparison of short-term seacliff retreat measurement methods in Del Mar, California. Geomorphology, 112(3-4), 318-323. doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2009.06.018
Clark, D. B., Feddersen, F., Omand, M. M., & Guza, R. T. (2009). Measuring Fluorescent Dye in the Bubbly and Sediment-Laden Surfzone. Water Air and Soil Pollution, 204(1-4), 103-115. doi: 10.1007/s11270-009-0030-z
Yates, M. L., Guza, R. T., & O'Reilly, W. C. (2009). Equilibrium shoreline response: Observations and modeling. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 114(C09014). doi: 10.1029/2009jc005359
Spydell, M. S., Feddersen, F., & Guza, R. T. (2009). Observations of drifter dispersion in the surfzone: The effect of sheared alongshore currents. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 114(C07028). doi: 10.1029/2009jc005328
Yates, M. L., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., & Seymour, R. J. (2009). Seasonal persistence of a small southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering, 56(5-6), 559-564. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.11.004
Omand, M. M., Feddersen, F., Clark, D. B., Franks, P. J. S., Leichter, J. J., & Guza, R. T. (2009). Influence of bubbles and sand on chlorophyll-a fluorescence measurements in the surfzone. Limnology and Oceanography-Methods, 7, 354-362. doi: 10.4319/lo.2011.56.3.0787

2008

Yates, M. L., Guza, R. T., Gutierrez, R., & Seymour, R. (2008). A technique for eliminating water returns from lidar beach elevation surveys. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 25(9), 1671-1682. doi: 10.1175/2008jtecho561.1
Apotsos, A., Raubenheimer, B., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2008). Wave-driven setup and alongshore flows observed onshore of a submarine canyon. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 113(C7). doi: 10.1029/2007jc004514
Apotsos, A., Raubenheimer, B., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2008). Testing and calibrating parametric wave transformation models on natural beaches. Coastal Engineering, 55(3), 224-235. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.10.002

2007

Spydell, M., Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., & Schmidt, W. E. (2007). Observing surf-zone dispersion with drifters. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 37(12), 2920-2939. doi: 10.1175/2007jpo3580.1
Thomson, J., Elgar, S., Herbers, T. H. C., Raubenheimer, B., & Guza, R. T. (2007). Refraction and reflection of infragravity waves near submarine canyons. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 112(C10). doi: 10.1029/2007jc004227
Apotsos, A., Raubenheimer, B., Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Smith, J. A. (2007). Effects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setup. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 112(C2). doi: 10.1029/2006jc003549

2006

Henderson, S. M., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., Herbers, T. H. C., & Bowen, A. J. (2006). Nonlinear generation and loss of infragravity wave energy. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 111(C12). doi: 10.1029/2006jc003539
Hsu, T. J., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2006). Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration. Coastal Engineering, 53(10), 817-824. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.04.003
Henderson, S. M., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2006). Refraction of surface gravity waves by shear waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 36(4), 629-635. doi: 10.1175/jpo2890.1
Thomson, J., Elgar, S., Raubenheimer, B., Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (2006). Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surfzone. Geophysical Research Letters, 33(5). doi: 10.1029/2005gl025514

2005

Schmidt, W. E., Guza, R. T., & Slinn, D. N. (2005). Surf zone currents over irregular bathymetry: Drifter observations and numerical simulations. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 110(C12). doi: 10.1029/2004jc002421
Elgar, S., Raubenheimer, B., & Guza, R. T. (2005). Quality control of acoustic Doppler velocimeter data in the surfzone. Measurement Science & Technology, 16(10), 1889-1893. doi: 10.1088/0957-0233/16/10/002
Noyes, T. J., Guza, R. T., Feddersen, F., Elgar, S., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2005). Model-data comparisons of shear waves in the nearshore. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 110(C5). doi: 10.1029/2004jc002541
Gallagher, E. L., Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Thornton, E. B. (2005). Estimating nearshore bedform amplitudes with altimeters. Marine Geology, 216(1-2), 51-57. doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2005.01.005
Seymour, R., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W., & Elgar, S. (2005). Rapid erosion of a small southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering, 52(2), 151-158. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.10.003
Sheremet, A., Guza, R. T., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2005). A new estimator for directional properties of nearshore waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 110(C1). doi: 10.1029/2003jc002236

2004

Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. (2004). Inverse modeling of one-dimensional setup and alongshore current in the nearshore. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 34(4), 920-933. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(2004)034<0920:imoosa>2.0.co;2
Raubenheimer, B., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2004). Observations of swash zone velocities: A note on friction coefficients. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 109(C1). doi: 10.1029/2003jc001877
Noyes, T. J., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2004). Field observations of shear waves in the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 109(C1). doi: 10.1029/2002jc001761

2003

Schmidt, W. E., Woodward, B. T., Millikan, K. S., Guza, R. T., Raubenheimer, B., & Elgar, S. (2003). A GPS-tracked surf zone drifter. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 20(7), 1069-1075. doi: 10.1175/1460.1
Feddersen, F., Gallagher, E. L., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. (2003). The drag coefficient, bottom roughness, and wave-breaking in the nearshore. Coastal Engineering, 48(3), 189-195. doi: 10.1016/s0378-3839(03)00026-7
Lentz, S. J., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2003). Observations of the flow field near the nose of a buoyant coastal current. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 33(4), 933-943. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(2003)33<933:ootffn>2.0.co;2
Feddersen, F., & Guza, R. T. (2003). Observations of nearshore circulation: Alongshore uniformity. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 108(C1). doi: 10.1029/2001jc001293
Herbers, T. H. C., Orzech, M., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2003). Shoaling transformation of wave frequency-directional spectra. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 108(C1). doi: 10.1029/2001jc001304

2002

Sheremet, A., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2002). Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 107(C8). doi: 10.1029/2001jc000970
Herbers, T. H. C., Elgar, S., Sarap, N. A., & Guza, R. T. (2002). Nonlinear dispersion of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 32(4), 1181-1193. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(2002)032<1181:ndosgw>2.0.co;2
Noyes, T. J. A., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2002). Comparison of methods for estimating nearshore shear wave variance. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 19(1), 136-143. doi: 10.1175/1520-0426(2002)019<0136:comfen>2.0.co;2

2001

Ruessink, B. G., Miles, J. R., Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. (2001). Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 106(C10), 22451-22463. doi: 10.1029/2000jc000766
Elgar, S., Gallagher, E. L., & Guza, R. T. (2001). Nearshore sandbar migration. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 106(C6), 11623-11627. doi: 10.1029/2000jc000389
Raubenheimer, B., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. (2001). Field observations of wave-driven setdown and setup. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 106(C3), 4629-4638. doi: 10.1029/2000jc000572
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., O'Reilly, W. C., Raubenheimer, B., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2001). Wave energy and direction observed near a pier. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 127(1), 2-6. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(2001)127:1(2)
Elgar, S., Raubenheimer, B., & Guza, R. T. (2001). Current meter performance in the surf zone. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 18(10), 1735-1746. doi: 10.1175/1520-0426(2001)018<1735:cmpits>2.0.co;2

2000

Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., & Herbers, T. H. C. (2000). Velocity moments in alongshore bottom stress parameterizations. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 105(C4), 8673-8686. doi: 10.1029/2000jc900022

1999

Sheremet, A., & Guza, R. T. (1999). A weakly dispersive edge wave model. Coastal Engineering, 38(1), 47-52. doi: 10.1016/s0378-3839(99)00022-8
Lentz, S., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., Feddersen, F., & Herbers, T. H. C. (1999). Momentum balances on the North Carolina inner shelf. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 104(C8), 18205-18226. doi: 10.1029/1999jc900101
Raubenheimer, B., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. (1999). Tidal water table fluctuations in a sandy ocean beach. Water Resources Research, 35(8), 2313-2320. doi: 10.1029/1999wr900105
Chen, Y. Z., & Guza, R. T. (1999). Resonant scattering of edge waves by longshore periodic topography: finite beach slope. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 387, 255-269. doi: 10.1017/s0022112099004528
Herbers, T. H. C., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1999). Directional spreading of waves in the nearshore. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 104(C4), 7683-7693. doi: 10.1029/1998jc900092

1998

Chen, Y. Z., & Guza, R. T. (1998). Resonant scattering of edge waves by longshore periodic topography. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 369, 91-123.
Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., & Herbers, T. H. C. (1998). Alongshore momentum balances in the nearshore. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 103(C8), 15667-15676. doi: 10.1029/98jc01270
Raubenheimer, B., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1998). Estimating wave heights from pressure measured in sand bed. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 124(3), 151-154. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1998)124:3(151)
O'Reilly, W. C., & Guza, R. T. (1998). Assimilating coastal wave observations in regional swell predictions. Part I: Inverse methods. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 28(4), 679-691. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1998)028<0679:acwoir>2.0.co;2
Gallagher, E. L., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1998). Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 103(C2), 3203-3215. doi: 10.1029/97jc02765

1997

Chen, Y. Z., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. (1997). Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 102(C11), 25035-25046. doi: 10.1029/97jc01565
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., Raubenheimer, B., Herbers, T. H. C., & Gallagher, E. L. (1997). Spectral evolution of shoaling and breaking waves on a barred beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 102(C7), 15797-15805. doi: 10.1029/97jc01010
Vanhoff, B., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1997). Numerically simulating non-Gaussian sea surfaces. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 123(2), 68-72. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1997)123:2(68)

1996

Raubenheimer, B., & Guza, R. T. (1996). Observations and predictions of run-up. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 101(C11), 25575-25587. doi: 10.1029/96jc02432
Raubenheimer, B., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. (1996). Wave transformation across the inner surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 101(C11), 25589-25597. doi: 10.1029/96jc02433
Okihiro, M., & Guza, R. T. (1996). Observations of seiche forcing and amplification in three small harbors. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 122(5), 232-238. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1996)122:5(232)
Gallagher, E. L., Boyd, W., Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Woodward, B. (1996). Performance of a sonar altimeter in the nearshore. Marine Geology, 133(3-4), 241-248. doi: 10.1016/0025-3227(96)00018-7
Oreilly, W. C., Herbers, T. H. C., Seymour, R. J., & Guza, R. T. (1996). A comparison of directional buoy and fixed platform measurements of Pacific swell. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 13(1), 231-238. doi: 10.1175/1520-0426(1996)013<0231:acodba>2.0.co;2

1995

Herbers, T. H. C., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1995). Generation and propagation of infragravity waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 100(C12), 24863-24872. doi: 10.1029/95jc02680
Okihiro, M., & Guza, R. T. (1995). Infragravity Energy Modulation by Tides. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 100(C8), 16143-16148. doi: 10.1029/95jc01545
Herbers, T. H. C., Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Oreilly, W. C. (1995). Infragravity-Frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) Motions on the Shelf .2. Free Waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 25(6), 1063-1079. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1995)025<1063:ifhmot>2.0.co;2
Raubenheimer, B., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S., & Kobayashi, N. (1995). Swash on a Gently Sloping Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 100(C5), 8751-8760. doi: 10.1029/95jc00232
Elwany, M. H. S., Oreilly, W. C., Guza, R. T., & Flick, R. E. (1995). Effects of Southern California Kelp Beds on Waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 121(2), 143-150. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1995)121:2(143)
Holland, K. T., Raubenheimer, B., Guza, R. T., & Holman, R. A. (1995). Runup Kinematics on a Natural Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 100(C3), 4985-4993. doi: 10.1029/94jc02664
Elgar, S., Herbers, T. H. C., Chandran, V., & Guza, R. T. (1995). Higher-Order Spectral-Analysis of Nonlinear Ocean Surface Gravity-Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 100(C3), 4977-4983. doi: 10.1029/94jc02900

1994

Elgar, S., Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (1994). Reflection of Ocean Surface Gravity-Waves from a Natural Beach. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 24(7), 1503-1511. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024<1503:roosgw>2.0.co;2
Herbers, T. H. C., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1994). Infragravity-Frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) Motions on the Shelf .1. Forced Waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 24(5), 917-927. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024<0917:ifhmot>2.0.co;2
Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (1994). Nonlinear-Wave Interactions and High-Frequency Sea-Floor Pressure. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 99(C5), 10035-10048. doi: 10.1029/94jc00054
George, R., Flick, R. E., & Guza, R. T. (1994). Observations of Turbulence in the Surf Zone. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 99(C1), 801-810. doi: 10.1029/93jc02717

1993

Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (1993). Velocity Observations above a Rippled Bed Using Laser-Doppler Velocimetry - Comment. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 98(C11), 20331-20333. doi: 10.1029/93jc01757
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Freilich, M. H. (1993). Observations of Nonlinear-Interactions in Directionally Spread Shoaling Surface Gravity-Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 98(C11), 20299-20305. doi: 10.1029/93jc02213
Okihiro, M., Guza, R. T., & Seymour, R. J. (1993). Excitation of Seiche Observed in a Small Harbor. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 98(C10), 18201-18211. doi: 10.1029/93jc01760
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Freilich, M. H. (1993). Dispersion, Nonlinearity, and Viscosity in Shallow-Water Waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 119(4), 351-366. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1993)119:4(351)
Oreilly, W. C., & Guza, R. T. (1993). A Comparison of 2 Spectral Wave Models in the Southern California Bight. Coastal Engineering, 19(3-4), 263-282. doi: 10.1016/0378-3839(93)90032-4
Liu, Z. H., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1993). Groups of Ocean Waves - Linear-Theory, Approximations to Linear-Theory, and Observations. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 119(2), 144-159. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1993)119:2(144)

1992

Herbers, T. H. C., Lowe, R. L., & Guza, R. T. (1992). Field Observations of Orbital Velocities and Pressure in Weakly Nonlinear Surface Gravity-Waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 245, 413-435. doi: 10.1017/s0022112092000521
Elgar, S., Herbers, T. H. C., Okihiro, M., Oltmanshay, J., & Guza, R. T. (1992). Observations of Infragravity Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 97(C10), 15573-15577. doi: 10.1029/92jc01316
Okihiro, M., Guza, R. T., & Seymour, R. J. (1992). Bound Infragravity Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 97(C7), 11453-11469. doi: 10.1029/92jc00270
Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (1992). Wind-Wave Nonlinearity Observed at the Sea-Floor .2. Wave-Numbers and 3rd-Order Statistics. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 22(5), 489-504. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1992)022<0489:wwnoat>2.0.co;2
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., Freilich, M. H., & Briggs, M. J. (1992). Laboratory Simulations of Directionally Spread Shoaling Waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 118(1), 87-103. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1992)118:1(87)

1991

Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (1991). Wind-Wave Nonlinearity Observed at the Sea-Floor .1. Forced-Wave Energy. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 21(12), 1740-1761. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1991)021<1740:wwnoat>2.0.co;2
Melo, E., & Guza, R. T. (1991). Wave-Propagation in Jettied Entrance Channels .1. Models. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 117(5), 471-492. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1991)117:5(471)
Melo, E., & Guza, R. T. (1991). Wave-Propagation in Jettied Entrance Channels .2. Observations. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 117(5), 493-510. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1991)117:5(493)
Herbers, T. H. C., Lowe, R. L., & Guza, R. T. (1991). Field Verification of Acoustic Doppler Surface Gravity-Wave Measurements. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 96(C9), 17023-17035. doi: 10.1029/91jc01326
Oreilly, W. C., & Guza, R. T. (1991). Comparison of Spectral Refraction and Refraction-Diffraction Wave Models. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 117(3), 199-215. doi: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1991)117:3(199)

1990

Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (1990). Estimation of Directional Wave Spectra from Multicomponent Observations. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 20(11), 1703-1724. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1990)020<1703:eodwsf>2.0.co;2
Merrifield, M. A., & Guza, R. T. (1990). Detecting Propagating Signals with Complex Empirical Orthogonal Functions - a Cautionary Note. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 20(10), 1628-1633. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1990)020<1628:dpswce>2.0.co;2
Elgar, S., Freilich, M. H., & Guza, R. T. (1990). Model-Data Comparisons of Moments of Nonbreaking Shoaling Surface Gravity-Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 95(C9), 16055-16063. doi: 10.1029/JC095iC09p16055
Elgar, S., Freilich, M. H., & Guza, R. T. (1990). Recurrence in Truncated Boussinesq Models for Nonlinear-Waves in Shallow-Water. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 95(C7), 11547-11556. doi: 10.1029/JC095iC07p11547
Freilich, M. H., Guza, R. T., & Elgar, S. L. (1990). Observations of Nonlinear Effects in Directional Spectra of Shoaling Gravity-Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 95(C6), 9645-9656. doi: 10.1029/JC095iC06p09645

1989

Herbers, T. H. C., & Guza, R. T. (1989). Estimation of Wave Radiation Stresses from Slope Array Data. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 94(C2), 2099-2104. doi: 10.1029/JC094iC02p02099

1988

Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1988). Statistics of Bicoherence. Ieee Transactions on Acoustics Speech and Signal Processing, 36(10), 1667-1668. doi: 10.1109/29.7555
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Freilich, M. H. (1988). Eulerian Measurements of Horizontal Accelerations in Shoaling Gravity-Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 93(C8), 9261-9269. doi: 10.1029/JC093iC08p09261
Guza, R. T., Clifton, M. C., & Rezvani, F. (1988). Field Intercomparisons of Electromagnetic Current Meters. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 93(C8), 9302-9314. doi: 10.1029/JC093iC08p09302
Guza, R. T. (1988). Kinematic and Dynamic Estimates from Electromagnetic Current-Meter Data - Comment. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 93(C2), 1337-1343. doi: 10.1029/JC093iC02p01337

1987

Oltmanshay, J., & Guza, R. T. (1987). Infragravity Edge Wave Observations on 2 California Beaches. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 17(5), 644-663. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1987)017<0644:iewoot>2.0.co;2

1986

Guza, R. T., Thornton, E. B., & Christensen, N. (1986). Observations of Steady Longshore Currents in the Surf Zone. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 16(11), 1959-1969. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1986)016<1959:ooslci>2.0.co;2
Thornton, E. B., & Guza, R. T. (1986). Surf Zone Longshore Currents and Random Waves - Field Data and Models. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 16(7), 1165-1178. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1986)016<1165:szlcar>2.0.co;2
Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1986). Nonlinear Model Predictions of Bispectra of Shoaling Surface Gravity-Waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 167, 1-18. doi: 10.1017/s0022112086002690

1985

Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1985). Observations of Bispectra of Shoaling Surface Gravity-Waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 161, 425-448. doi: 10.1017/s0022112085003007
Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (1985). Shoaling Gravity-Waves - Comparisons between Field Observations, Linear-Theory, and a Nonlinear Model. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 158(SEP), 47-70. doi: 10.1017/s0022112085002543
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Seymour, R. J. (1985). Wave Group Statistics from Numerical Simulations of a Random Sea. Applied Ocean Research, 7(2), 93-96. doi: 10.1016/0141-1187(85)90039-2
Guza, R. T., & Thornton, E. B. (1985). Observations of Surf Beat. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 90(NC2), 3161-3172. doi: 10.1029/JC090iC02p03161
Wu, C. S., Thornton, E. B., & Guza, R. T. (1985). Waves and Longshore Currents - Comparison of a Numerical-Model with Field Data. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 90(NC3), 4951-4958. doi: 10.1029/JC090iC03p04951
Guza, R. T., & Thornton, E. B. (1985). Velocity Moments in Nearshore. Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-Asce, 111(2), 235-256. doi: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1985)111:2(235)

1984

Oltmanshay, J., & Guza, R. T. (1984). A Data-Adaptive Ocean Wave Directional Spectrum Estimator for Pitch and Roll Type Measurements. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 14(11), 1800-1810. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1984)014<1800:adaowd>2.0.co;2
Holman, R. A., & Guza, R. T. (1984). Measuring Run-up on a Natural Beach. Coastal Engineering, 8(2), 129-140. doi: 10.1016/0378-3839(84)90008-5
Pawka, S. S., Inman, D. L., & Guza, R. T. (1984). Island Sheltering of Surface Gravity-Waves - Model and Experiment. Continental Shelf Research, 3(1), 35-53. doi: 10.1016/0278-4343(84)90042-6
Freilich, M. H., & Guza, R. T. (1984). Nonlinear Effects on Shoaling Surface Gravity-Waves. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London Series a-Mathematical Physical and Engineering Sciences, 311(1515), 1-41. doi: 10.1098/rsta.1984.0019
Elgar, S., Guza, R. T., & Seymour, R. J. (1984). Groups of Waves in Shallow-Water. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 89(NC3), 3623-3634. doi: 10.1029/JC089iC03p03623

1983

Pawka, S. S., Inman, D. L., & Guza, R. T. (1983). Radiation Stress Estimators. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 13(9), 1698-1708. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1983)013<1698:rse>2.0.co;2
Thornton, E. B., & Guza, R. T. (1983). Transformation of Wave Height Distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 88(NC10), 5925-5938. doi: 10.1029/JC088iC10p05925

1982

Wright, L. D., Guza, R. T., & Short, A. D. (1982). Dynamics of a High-Energy Dissipative Surf Zone. Marine Geology, 45(1-2), 41-62. doi: 10.1016/0025-3227(82)90179-7
Inman, D. L., & Guza, R. T. (1982). The Origin of Swash Cusps on Beaches. Marine Geology, 49(1-2), 133-148. doi: 10.1016/0025-3227(82)90033-0
Thornton, E. B., & Guza, R. T. (1982). Energy Saturation and Phase Speeds Measured on a Natural Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 87(NC12), 9499-9508. doi: 10.1029/JC087iC12p09499
Guza, R. T., & Thornton, E. B. (1982). Swash Oscillations on a Natural Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 87(NC1), 483-491. doi: 10.1029/JC087iC01p00483

1981

Flick, R. E., Guza, R. T., & Inman, D. L. (1981). Elevation and Velocity-Measurements of Laboratory Shoaling Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 86(NC5), 4149-4160. doi: 10.1029/JC086iC05p04149
Guza, R. T., & Thornton, E. B. (1981). Wave Set-up on a Natural Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 86(NC5), 4133-4137. doi: 10.1029/JC086iC05p04133
Guza, R. T., & Bowen (1981). On the Amplitude of Beach Cusps. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 86(NC5), 4125-4132. doi: 10.1029/JC086iC05p04125
Huntley, D. A., Guza, R. T., & Thornton, E. B. (1981). Field Observations of Surf Beat .1. Progressive Edge Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 86(NC7), 6451-6466. doi: 10.1029/JC086iC07p06451

1980

Guza, R. T., & Thornton, E. B. (1980). Local and Shoaled Comparisons of Sea-Surface Elevations, Pressures, and Velocities. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 85(NC3), 1524-1530. doi: 10.1029/JC085iC03p01524
Flick, R. E., & Guza, R. T. (1980). Paddle Generated Waves in Laboratory Channels. Journal of the Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Division-Asce, 106(1), 79-97.

1979

Guza, R. T., & Chapman, D. C. (1979). Experimental-Study of the Instabilities of Waves Obliquely Incident on a Beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 95(NOV), 199-208. doi: 10.1017/s0022112079001427

1978

Bowen, A. J., & Guza, R. T. (1978). Edge Waves and Surf Beat. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 83(NC4), 1913-1920. doi: 10.1029/JC083iC04p01913

1977

Huntley, D. A., Guza, R. T., & Bowen, A. J. (1977). Universal Form for Shoreline Run-up Spectra. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 82(18), 2577-2581. doi: 10.1029/JC082i018p02577

1976

Guza, R. T., & Bowen, A. J. (1976). Finite-Amplitude Edge Waves. Journal of Marine Research, 34(2), 269-293.

1975

Guza, R. T., & Inman, D. L. (1975). Edge Waves and Beach Cusps. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 80(21), 2997-3012. doi: 10.1029/JC080i021p02997
Guza, R. T., & Bowen, A. J. (1975). Resonant Instabilities of Long Waves Obliquely Incident on a Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 80(33), 4529-4534. doi: 10.1029/JC080i033p04529

1974

Guza, R. T., & Davis, R. E. (1974). Excitation of Edge Waves by Waves by Incident on a Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 79(9), 1285-1291. doi: 10.1029/JC079i009p01285